Peru

Coming:

Fly- El Aeropuerto Internacional Jorge Chávez. From there you can take the Airport Express to Miraflores. They are an awesome company and make it extremely easy. Their staff is really helpful and will walk you through exactly what you need to do. If you’re staying elsewhere then just take a cab. It’s a bit pricey- and if you’re by yourself it might be cheaper to take airport express to Miraflores and take a cab from there, but it’ll still going to cost you. 

Price- Airport Express $8 USD (S/. 25 PEN) one way $15 USD (S/. 48 PEN) round trip          Cab to Barranco S/. 50-60 PEN ($ 15.50 $18.60 PEN)      Cab to center S/. 40-50 PEN ($12.45 – $15.50 USD)

Bus – You can also bus in from Ecuador, or anywhere in Peru. Generally buses in Peru are very nice, as tourism is so prevalent- but to be honest I don’t know much about coming from the North. Compare different bus companies HERE, though.

Once here you can get around the various neighborhoods on foot, rent bikes, or take a cab if you’re traveling to different neighborhoods.

Price- Cab  S/. 15-20 PEN ($4.67-$6.22 USD)

Sleeping:

Miraflores neighborhood- Where most of the tourists stay. It’s a fancy neighborhood with endless options for eating and drinking. It’s also near the beach. There’s a lot to do around here making it a very convenient place to stay. 

The Prime Spot Backpackers Hostel is a really nice and chill hostel. The rooms and beds are really spacious and comfortable and the bathrooms are clean. The kitchen has decent cooking facilities and there is plenty of space to hang out. It’s a great location close to a big supermarket and a good area or Miraflores. They’ve got fast Wi-Fi and a helpful staff. If you’re looking for a party hostel, this is not it, though.

Overall- 9/10                      Price- S/. 32.21 PEN ($10 USD) for a 10 bed mixed          Average/Slightly above average for Lima   

Barranco neighborhood- A bit more hipster and less touristy than Miraflores. Also some great bars and restaurants near here. I stayed in an AirBnb here and really enjoyed the neighborhood. Definitely recommend to come here, even if you’re not staying here. 

Central- Central Lima is nice, but chaotic. It’s extremely noisy and really crowded. There are a few good spots and it’s nice to visit, but I wouldn’t recommend staying here just since it’s a bit harder to get to good food spots. 

1900 Backpackers Hostel– Good price, clean facilities, decent Wi-Fi. I didn’t love the location very much.  It’s a bit far from the main neighborhoods but at the same time there were some cool bars and a more local feel, despite all the hotels.

Overall – 7.5/10 (because of location)      Price- S/. 26 PEN ($8 USD) for a 18 bed mixed dorm                         Cheap-Average price for Lima

AirBnb’s are a little more centrally located than in Cusco but a bit pricier. The more in advance you can book the better as there are much more options.

Eating:

Ceviche – This is the place to eat ceviche and seafood in general! With the Pacific Ocean at Lima’s fingertips, everything is fresh, fresh, fresh! Don’t pay for expensive ceviche at a fancy restaurant because it’s going to taste exactly the same as the delicious and cheap ceviche from the local markets. I literally stopped being vegetarian in Lima so I could try the ceviche. 

But, if you’re looking for a little more upscale- try out El Mercado. Located in Miraflores this place has an unbeatable ambiance and great tasting food. The cocktails are expensive but delicious and the ceviche was on point.

Price- cocktails S/. 25-30 PEN ($8.50-$9.50USD), ceviche S/. 57-65 PEN ($18-$20)

Canta Ranita – a small market in Barranco, they open at one and will run out after a few hours so try to get there on time! We only got to try one since we got there so late but it was excellent

Sushi- Because of the large population of Japanese immigrants there is surprisingly great sushi in Lima. Edo in Miraflores was a recommendation by a good friend of mine, but ultimately too far from Barranco so we ate at Hosso, instead. Had some awesome sushi and delicious ramen.

La Panetteria – If you’re in the Barranco neighborhood then head here for coffee, pastries, breakfast or lunch. They have freshly baked bread and AMAZING food. The tea is a little bit pricey but it’s all very high quality and a really nice ambiance.

Doing: Rent bikes, head to the beach, drink beer.

Rent bikes from Mirabici at Larcomar mall. The mall is a really nice place to walk around with good views if you want to stop for a food or a snack (pricey, though) and you can ride along the Malecón which is a path along the coast and a lovely ride. Stop off and sit at a park bench to take in the views or sit in the grass and take in the beautiful weather of Lima.

Price- S/. 50 PEN ($15.50 USD) for the day (until 7 pm)

Beach- There are many beaches in Lima. Catch a wave or just watch the surfers from the beach. They weren’t the nicest beaches ever but, a beach is a beach!

If you like local craft beer and are staying Barranco then head to Barranco Beer Company for some good ones. 

Staying: 2-3 days was enough for me! There were a few different areas of town to explore and I enjoyed my time there but was ready to go after a few days.

Going: If you’re coming from the north then your next stop should be Paracas- otherwise known as “The poor man’s Galapagos”. If you’re coming from the south then head up to Huaraz for some trekking. Others choose to head straight to Cusco from here.

The Amazon is huge. You can visit from Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Brazil and Bolivia. How do you choose? Each part is different and hosts different wildlife. I chose this because it was easy to get to and not outrageously expensive. 

Coming:

Fly- There is an airport here so you can easily fly from Lima or Cusco.

Bus- Take an overnight bus from Cusco to cut down on costs. They’re all comfortable coach buses and have seats that recline pretty far. I will warn it’s not a great night’s sleep- as they play movies until midnight ad make stops along the way- but for that price I can deal.

Price- S/. 50-60 one way

Once there, you’ll have transportation provided for you by whatever company you used.

Sleeping: Paradise Eco Lodge was where I stayed through my agency and it was great! The rooms were spacious and clean with hammocks and comfortable beds.

Eating: They’ll provide all meals for you and they’re all really good. It was no problem being a vegetarian.

Doing: The Amazon! Unfortunately you’ll have to book a tour. The Amazon is not a place you want to find yourself alone. Also it’s just not an option to go without a guide. All companies offer the same things. You’ll kayak, do a little hiking,  go ziplining, and a canopy walk. 

You will also obviously see a lot of wildlife! 

There isn’t too much else to say. You have to go experience it! 

Price- $220 USD for housing, a guide, all meals and all excursions (Does not include transport there) 

Staying: Four days and three nights was a good amount of time.

Going: Get back to Cusco to spend more time there. From Cusco you can head to Arequipa down south or down and over to Bolivia. Otherwise you can fly directly to Lima where it’s easy to get elsewhere.

Maras

Be careful. Maras and the salt mines are two different things. Maras is the name of the town and the salineras is the actual salt mines.

Coming:

From Cusco- THIS blog explains it very well. But I’d suggest taking the cab to the salineras and doing the walking on the way back. 

Price- S/. 6 PEN ($1.85 USD) collectivo, S/. 4 PEN ($1.30 USD) cab to salineras

From Moray- See the Moray section below, but I would actually suggest getting the collectivo to the Maras drop off then cabbing to Moray and then cabbing to the salineras. 

From Urubamba- Take a local collectivo

Price– I don’t remember the prices exactly but should be very cheap

Sleeping: Don’t sleep here, easy half day trip from Cusco

Eating: I wouldn’t eat in Maras. The market had a few restaurants that did not offer much variety and were out of almost everything. Bring some snacks and save your meal for somewhere else.

Doing: Visit the salt mines! And make sure to take a walk through them as well! 

Price- S/. 10 PEN ($9 USD)

Staying: About a half hour in the salt mines plus the walk back if you choose to do so.

Going: Instead of paying a cab to stay at the salineras, hike back to town on a 45-50 minute walk. It’s uphill but a nice walk with beautiful scenery.  The path isn’t super obvious so just ask if you can’t find it (you’re not walking along the road).

From Maras you should be able to grab a van to the town of Urubamba where you can head elsewhere in the Sacred Valley if this is your first stop. A lot of people combine Maras with nearby Moray so you can cab it to Moray if you haven’t already been there. You can also catch a collectivo back to Cusco in the same place you got dropped off, just outside of town.

Moray

If you’re NOT going to any other ruins it’s not worth the entrance fee. If you’ll be using the ticket for any of the other three sites then might as well if you’re already in Maras.  But in general it wasn’t particularly exciting to me.

Coming:  It’s a short cab ride from where the collective drops you off outside Maras.

Price- S/. 20 PEN ($6.17 USD) per cab one way

Sleeping: It’s just a site, nowhere to sleep

Eating: Nowhere to eat either, your closest option is back in Maras

Doing: Visit the ruins! HERE is a short description of what they’re all about.   

Price- S/. 70 PEN ($32 USD) for two consecutive days and entrance into Moray, Pisac, Ollantaytambo, and Chichero OR S/. 130 PEN ($40 USD) for 10 days and 11 included attractions

Staying: Takes about a half an hour to walk around and snap pics

Going: Have your cab driver stay and he can give you a ride to the salineras or back to Maras where you can get cheaper transport to another town or back to Cusco. It’s too far to walk back.

Price- It’ll cost another S/. 20 PEN for him to wait for you and S/. 20 PEN for the actual ride. It’s advisable to go with a group so you can split this cost.

Pisac

Coming:

From Cusco- Take a collectivo. The station is a little outside of the center off of Avenida de la Cultura. You’ll see it on maps.me (although it’s a little off) or ask your accommodation. It’s pretty easy to find and the ride takes around 45 minutes. As always, it’ll leave when it’s full, but shouldn’t be a long wait. 

Price- S/. 4 PEN ($1.30 USD)

From Maras/Moray- If you’re doing the ruins I would spend a whole day here. If not, it’s is an easy half day trip. Take a collectivo to Urubamba (largest town nearby) and from there you can get on another collectivo to Pisac. If you’re a group you can pay a little more for a driver to take you directly there. 

Price- I do not remember EXACTLY what the prices were but roughly- S/. 12 PEN ($4 USD) from Urubamba to Pisac in collectivo; S/. 90 PEN ($30 USD) for private driver; S/. 4 PEN ($1.30 USD) collective from Maras to Urubamba

Sleeping – There are plenty of hostels in Pisac but I wouldn’t recommend staying overnight. An afternoon or full day is plenty of time. 

Eating– Lots of places around town. Many cater to tourists. I find the local hole-in-the-wall places to be the best food and the best value, though. You can find a menu del dia for S/. 5 PEN that includes a soup, choice of entrée and juice. The touristy places are all pretty pricey.

Doing– While ruins in Peru are much like cathedrals in Europe and temples in SE Asia (after a while they’re all the same….) Pisac ruins are worth a visit. They were an Incan fortress back in the day and located up on the mountain. Take a cab up and then walk down.

You’ll want probably two hours to explore the ruins and walk down to the town.  Grab lunch and a pisco sour and go shopping! The market is enormous and has some great stuff with similar, if not cheaper, prices than Cusco.  

Price- S/. 30 PEN ($10 USD) for a cab up to the ruins; Use the same ticket as Moray ticket (or buy it if you stop here first)

Staying– 1 full day trip

Going– Take a collectivo back to Cusco from the same place you were dropped off. If you don’t remember ask round, everyone knows! It’s about two blocks away from the main square and you’ll hear them shouting “CUSCO?!?!” from afar. 

Price- S/. 4 PEN ($1.30 USD) 

Others 

Ollantaytambo and Chinchero – After having done MP I wasn’t super interested in doing a bunch of ruins. Ollantaytambo did look pretty cool but just ran out of time. Chinchero didn’t sound like it was going to be anything significantly different than what I had already done and seen.

Coming: Many people do one of the multi-day treks to Machu Picchu (MP). They’re tough, but beautiful and so much fun. Unless you’re doing the Inca Trail, if you’re wanting to arrive early at MP you’ll be spending the night in Aguascalientes the night before. I would equate Aguascalientes to having a similar vibe of a ski town. Everyone there is a tourist except the staff but still manages to have a decent vibe to it. It’s also surrounded by some stunning mountains which doesn’t hurt.

Train- Take the Inca Rail to Aguascalientes. I’ve heard it’s super easy to book this without an agency. Take the train into Aguascalientes, spend the afternoon wandering around.

Price- One-way $80

Treks- Take a multi-day trek to arrive in Aguascalientes (unless you’re doing the Inca Trail) and wake up early to trek up the stairs to Machu Picchu. More information about each trek below.

Price- Varies by trek, amount of time, and mode of transport back

Sleeping: Our accommodation was included in the trek, but there are no shortage of options throughout Aguascalientes.  

Eating: If you’re doing a trek you’ll get all your meals included except the first breakfast and very lunch on the afternoon you go to MP. All the restaurants in Aguascalientes are very touristy but most looked like they had decent food. There is a café at the entrance of MP but food is quite pricey. There’s also a restaurant but it doesn’t open until 11 am.

Doing: Here is a little more information on each of the different treks.

Salkantay- This is the trek I did. The norm is to do it in 5 days, but it’s also possible to do it in four with a slightly different schedule. Day one is a long morning of transport and getting everything ready. Breakfast is not included in the price this day but the restaurant isn’t too outrageous. Then you take a little time meeting your guide and your group and spend the rest of the morning hiking a pleasant and relatively flat trail. You’ll arrive at your campsite, have lunch and get yourself set up. Then there is an optional hike to Humantay Lake which is about an hour to an hour and a half hike upwards to a breathtaking lake. Do it. Even if it’s raining.

Sleep in tents.

Day two is a long day- hiking up in the morning to arrive at Salkantay pass and then the rest of the day heading downwards (which gets a bit hard on the knees). The pass was really cloudy for us so we couldn’t see too much but even in the clouds it was awesome!

Sleep in tents.

Day three you’ve descended into the jungle and spend the day hiking through the jungle. It rained heavily the night before so we had to hike on the road due to landslides and the path in the jungle being blocked. In the afternoon there is an optional trip to hot springs which was lovely.

At night you’ll try some Inca tequila and then they throw a bonfire and a party. Beers and tequila flow as you dance the night away with all the other groups who are also doing Salkantay and you’ve seen every day along the way.

Sleep in tents.

Day four is an optional zip line in the morning. This costs an additional $15 and should be booked in advance. You can book last minute as well but it’ll cost you a lot more money.

If you zipline then you’ll bus to lunch where you’ll meet up with the rest of the group and after lunch is a three hour hike along the railroad tracks to Aguascalientes. If you choose not to zipline you’ll hike about three hours to the lunch spot. Sleep in a hostel/hotel.

Day five is MP! Wake up early and wait in line for the gates to open. Then it’s a hike up, up, up. It was a pretty tough hike but we flew through it and arrived in about 45 minutes. The faster you get up there the earlier you get into MP! A shrt tour with your guide is included and afterwards you’re on your own!  The weather was great early and then got extremely rainy and cloudy (I went early January though which is during rainy season) before eventually clearing up around noonish. There is an option to climb either Waynapichu or Machu Picchu Mountain (both tickets must be reserved in advance with a specific time slot) and cost an additional $15. The people who bought tickets didn’t even bother going because it was so cloudy and you very literally could not see anything. 

It’s also not ideal to climb more mountains after trekking the previous four days. Spend the rest of your time wandering around at your leisure exploring. It’s a HUGE complex and there is a ton to see. 

If you do the four day trek you’ll do everything the same until the afternoon of day 3 where you’ll skip the hot springs and zip lining and hike a bit farther to take transport directly to Aguascalientes.

For this trek DO NOT book online it’s going to be way more expensive. You’ll need a few days in advance to book in Cusco, but it’ll be much cheaper to book in person.

Price- $180 with bus $240 with train

Inca Trail- The majority of the people I’ve talked to who have done the Inca Trail have absolutely LOVED it. It’s a four day trek and you enter MP at the Sun Gate (the other side of where everyone from Aguascalientes is coming from). It’s a tough trek with no showers along the way but, again, almost everyone has had an absolute blast. I have heard it’s full of tourists, though, making it a lot less pleasant.

Contrarily, I have also heard that there is a limit on how many people can do the trek so during high season all of the people who didn’t get spots do the alternative treks making those extremely crowded as well. But, honestly, everything is going to be crowded. It’s Machu freaking Picchu. For me it was too expensive and I just don’t like being tied to a schedule by booking things that far in advance.

This trek you MIGHT be able to get availability if you come during the low season, but otherwise it’s necessary to book 3-6 months in advance if not more. The Inca Trail is closed during the February for maintenance (but all other treks are still available).

Price- I’m not sure what the prices are in person, but I’ve seen anywhere from $500 upwards online

Inca Jungle- I’ve also met a lot of people who did this and had a great time! It’s a three day adventure where you bike down a mountain, go rafting, zip lining and hiking. It’s a great for those shorter on time. Everyone who I’ve talked to that has done it has had a blast.

Price- $140 with bus $210 with train

Lares Trek- I know literally nothing about this, but I would imagine it’s more off the beaten track since I’ve never met anyone who has done it.

Staying: I stayed at MP for seven hours and didn’t feel like I saw even close to everything- but was also quite ready to leave because of the amount of crowds that arrive in the afternoon. There are two ticket timeslots (6 am- 12:00 pm and 12:00 pm – 6 pm). With both tickets you’re allowed leave and re-enter one more time (so a total of two entrances), but if you have a 6am-12pm ticket, you must re-enter before 11:30 am, otherwise they will not let you back in. There are no bathrooms in MP which is why you’d probably want to leave and come back once. Once you’re back in you can stay past 12:00 pm but it does start to get extremely crowded.

Going: If you’re doing a trek, there are two options to leave back to Cusco. The cheaper options is to take the bus and the more expensive option (about $80 extra) is to take the train. In my opinion, it’s SO worth it to take the train. Those taking the bus only get to spend around three hours exploring MP. During rainy season the weather is super cloudy and unpredictable and therefore it’s usually necessary to wait out the clouds. 

But even if you have perfect weather, you’ll most likely only be at MP once in your life and three hours just wasn’t enough time to explore. The people taking the bus have to store their things at the entrance, leave MP at 11 am, hike down the mountain, hike three hours back on the railroad tracks (not a particularly great walk), and then take a six hour bus back to Cusco.

Those taking the train can spend all day in MP and arrive in Aguascalientes a half hour before their trains. We took the 4:12 pm train giving us plenty of time to visit MP, drink pisco sours in Aguascalientes for a bit and arrive in Cusco around 8 pm. It’s a lovely train ride and then about a two hour bus ride after that.

If you didn’t come via trek then you’ll get back to Cusco the same way you came on the train.

Coming:

Fly- Fly into Aeropuerto Internacional Alejandro Velasco Astete.  There are many daily flights from Lima varying in price.

Bus- A bus from Lima will take around 22 hours. If you’re doing the loop from Lima then take an overnight bus from Puno or Arequipa. Compare companies HERE.

Once here you should be able to get everywhere by foot, but cabs are very cheap and should run you about 5 soles per ride.

Sleeping:

Wild Rover– This place is like a small town. Pass through the gates and you’ve got reception, a travel agency, the hostel itself, and the bar. This is definitely a party hostel but the bar is separated with soundproof walls to ensure guests can still get a good night sleep if they have early treks or simply don’t feel like going out. The bar serves food and has an awesome vibe. Come on Monday nights for pub trivia!

Price- S/. 29 PEN ($8.95 USD) for a 20 bed mixed dorm (+ more options for smaller dorms) 

Magic Packers– Nice beds- but top bunk is hard to climb into. Decent Wi-Fi, but not in the rooms. Clean facilities, regular breakfast and nice staff. I was only there one night so can’t comment too much on the vibe.

Overall- 8.5/10                     Price- S/.25 PEN ($USD $7.71)                    Average for Cusco

Others- Loki, Pirwa and Kokopelli are also supposed to be very good.

Airbnb– If you’re here for a long period of time you may consider an Airbnb for some privacy. Most are a little outside the center but it’s pretty nice living away from the touristy stuff and women constantly yelling “MASAJE?!” at you.  My Airbnb host was amazing! Julia was so welcoming and just a badass lady. I lived with her and one other guest for a month and had a few weeks to myself when she went on vacation. Her apartment is a short 30 minute walk from the center and is very comfortable. Check out her listing HERE.  It’s a private room but not the entire apartment usually. 

Eating: To be perfectly honest, I didn’t eat out much here. But if you’re going to do so- go to Green Point Café. It’s vegan food, but don’t let that deter you. I’ve brought many a meat eater here and they’ve said it’s the best food they’ve eaten in Peru. Go for their daily lunch menu del dia every day from noon-2:00 pm. You’ll get a salad bar, soup, choice between two entrees, desert and a juice and all for just S/. 15 soles! Get there early because it gets busy and will fill up. They’re open all day, though, so head there for dinner or breakfast as well!

Price- between S/. 15-40 off menu

Limbus Restobar– Grab a drink here for sunset (or any time of day) and enjoy one of the best views of the city! It has craft beer, fun cocktails, a full menu (starting at 6:30 pm) and a really nice vibe. 

Pisco Museum– It’s a bit pricey and not really a museum, but for one DELICIOUS pisco drink it’s worth the trip. 

Doing: Everyone comes for Machu Picchu, but you’ll stay because you’ll realize how much there is to do here! Visit the Sacred Valley, Puerto Maldonado, Rainbow Mountain, and explore Cusco itself. You may want to give yourself a few days to acclimatize to the altitude as everyone handles it differently.

Check out more detailed information on Machu Picchu HERE. 

More on the Sacred Valley HERE. 

More on Puerto Maldonado HERE. 

Rainbow Mountain- This place looks epic. I didn’t end up going for various reasons, but I hear great things! It’s a long day with lots of traveling and lots of altitude (over 5,000m /16,404 ft), but the photos look beautiful. I walked around talking to a few different agencies and the best seemed to be with Peru Coca Travel, where you get to go to the Red Valley and three lagunas as well which other tours don’t offer. It’s possible to climb this without a tour by renting a car or hiring a taxi, but since it’s a 3 hour drive there and back and with a suggested 3 am start time it’s not ideal. The taxi is expensive and the driving is a lot. 

In Cusco- Take the free walking tour, walk around San Pedro market and definitely climb up to Cristo Blanco for an awesome view of the city and then head over to Sacsayhuaman ruins just a few minutes away on foot. 

If you’ve got some time, stay a while and volunteer at CusiMaki. It’s a great after school program where you get to spend the afternoon hanging out with some of the coolest kids in Peru. They all come from poor families and some have very sad stories but they all show up with a smile on their faces every day and an incredible attitude! It’s a very humbling and rewarding experience! I’m trying to track down their contact info, I signed up for it through Wiracocha Spanish School. 

Staying: At least a week, if not more. You could easily spend a few weeks here!

Going: Many head back to Lima to fly out of Peru. Be careful if you have connecting international flights out of Lima, as the flights are very often delayed- especially during rainy season. Others who are headed south head towards Puno/Bolivia and cross over to Copacabana. You can also bus south Arequipa or onto Chile. 

Coming: Arrive via the bus you’ve chosen from HERE. 

Sleeping: Don’t sleep here.

Eating: Ricos Pan. Cheap menu del dia for lunch and good all-around food. Not a ton of options for vegetarians, though. There is a bakery downstairs as well as ice cream!

Doing: Floating islands- They’re extremely touristy but I thought they were still cool. They’re just so unique it’s hard to pass up the chance to see them. It is entire communities build on REEDS for heaven’s sake. That’s cool! Bring your passport and for 1 PEN you can get a stamp! There are 2.5 hour tours, full day or 2 day tours. I saw all I needed to see in the 2.5 hours and am happy with that. 

Price- S/. 35 PEN ($10 USD) for 2.5 hour tour  

Staying: Half day. Skip it if you’re short on time though. 

Going: Head north to Cusco or south to Arequipa. Otherwise head onwards to Bolivia!

Coming: Most likely this is not your first stop in Peru. Therefore you’ve already figured out your bus situation. If not- check out the differences in companies HERE. 

Sleeping: MB Backpackers– Rooms are standard but it’s got a great location and a nice free breakfast with a choice of eggs and bread or banana pancakes. The rooftop bar has hammocks and a really nice vibe. It closes at 10 which makes it the perfect balance between social but not crazy- which is nice when you have a 3 am wake up for treks. Staff was extremely helpful and very nice. Reviews on hostelworld say to book tours through the hostel, but it’s going to be cheaper to book through an agency. Shop around. I booked through them and regretted it after talking to others. Wi-Fi would go back and forth between really quick and really slow. Make sure to read dorm descriptions as they all offer different amenities.

Overall- 9/10                 Price- S/. 27.53 PEN (USD) for 10 bed mixed dorm                             Average to slightly above average for Arequipa

Eating: Burger Chulls- IT’S AMAZING. Delicious burgers (quinoa patties for vegetarians) and lots of options for toppings with three delicious sauces. Go with the sweet potato fries. They’re much tastier than the regular fries. 

Doing: Trek, explore the city

Trek Colca Canyon- There are a few options here. 1 Day, 2 days, and 3 days. 2 and three days are exactly the same but three days is more spread out. For me personally, it would’ve bene WAY too slow and too much down time. Two days was perfect. One day has a different route, make sure to ask the differences. Two days was great. Make sure to bring a lot of snacks. On day two you climb around 1,200m vertical before breakfast (this ensures you miss the sun during your climb).

Price- S/. 90 PEN ($USD) is the cheapest I’ve heard the 2-Day trek going for. Most places will be S/. 100-120 PEN ($USD) 

Volcanoes- There are three volcanoes surrounding Arequipa. You can summit each of them. This is a less popular thing to do since Colca Canyon is also a climb and the vast majority of people have just come from or are heading to Cusco where there are more mountains to be climbed. If you have the time and energy, though, it looks beautiful!

Explore the city- Arequipa is Peru’s second largest city. It has a nice feel to it and definitely less touristy than Cusco. Spend the day walking around and exploring. There is a market, but it’s no different than any other market and walking tour- which happens to be the worst walking tour I’ve been on. The guide was very clearly making up answers when we asked questions he didn’t know the answer to and was very hard to understand. Even when I tried to ask him in Spanish his answers were unclear.  That being said, I met a great group of people so ended up having a really good time.

Staying: 3 days is perfect. Arrive early from the night bus and book your Colca Canyon trek.  Spend the day exploring the city and preparing for your trek. Take your 2 day trek and either head out on the night bus to Cusco or early the next day.

Going: Most people go to Cusco from here. I went to Puno for the day first before making my way up to Cusco. Some opt to go to Cusco first then hit Puno on the way back down on their way to Bolivia or skip it all together if they’re heading to Bolivia as the Bolivian side of Titicaca is said to be more beautiful. If you’re going the other way then you’re onto Nazca or Huacachina! (I don’t think Nazca is worth it).  

Coming: Take the bus from Lima or Paracas. If you’re coming the opposite direction then you’ll be taking a bus from Nazca or Arequipa. Check HERE for descriptions and comparisons. I took Peru Hop and was very satisfied. 

Sleeping: Location isn’t an issue in Huacachina since the “town” is so small. Every place to stay is within a few minutes walking. 

Casa de Arenas- There is a pool and a nice deck area with good food and decent drink prices. The rooms and facilities were acceptable, but there was only one outlet in the room, the pool was only cleaned one of the days I was there (and it was green the other days), the internet only works in the lounge and there’s not much of a vibe for meeting new people unless they’re in your room. It’s also pretty noisy. Staff is up and yelling across the property to each other at 7 am, you can hear EVERYTHING happening outside your door and on weekends there is a nightclub next door open until late with loud music.

Overall- 6.5/10               Price- S/. 25 PEN ($7.64 USD) for a 14 bed dorm and discounted with Peruhop         Cheap for Huacachina 

Banana’s Adventures and La Casa de Bamboo – These are the more backpackery places to stay. I have heard good things about both and while I don’t know anything about the actual facilities I would probably recommend staying in one of these if you’re looking to meet people. 

Bananas- Price- S/. 80 PEN ($24.45 USD) for 6 bed mixed dorm – crazy expensive

La Casa de Bamboo- S/. 28 PEN ($8.56 USD)  for 8 bed mixed dorm – average for Huacachina

Eating:

Wild Olive Trattoria- Good Italian food – but they didn’t have wine. L

Nuna- Quiet, nice vibe though. Peruvian food as well as burgers, pizza and pasta available. You’ll definitely leave full. Only downside is they didn’t have a 2×1 drink special like most other places did.

Huacafuckingchina – Amazing name. Nice food and drink specials and the staff is friendly and fun.

Doing: Take the sand buggy and sandboarding tour, climb the dunes for sunset, chill out

Sand buggying and boarding is AMAZING!! It is a two hour long tour and so much fun! Wear sunscreen and prepare to get sand everywhere. It’s well worth it though.

If you’re staying two nights then hike up one of the closets sand dunes around dusk to watch the sun set. It’s great exercise, an awesome view and really unique.

Huacachina is an oasis. There’s a ton of great happy hour specials, places with pools, etc. Take your time and relax. Have a few pisco sours, lay out by the pool, nap in the shade by the lagoon and take it all in. It’s a really cool place.

There is a pisco tour available as well- it wasn’t worth it. You learn a liiiitttle about Pisco and there is a tasting at the end but it’s just a few sips of bad wine and no actual Pisco. It was free with Peruhop so fine, but don’t pay to do this.  

Staying: You could easily do everything there is to do in a day. The sand buggy tours are at 4:30 every evening and Pisco tours can be done in the afternoon. But, I would recommend staying an extra day to chill out and enjoy the dunes. I stayed 2 days and was quite content. After that there isn’t much to do and you’ll just be spending your money on eating and drinking out.

Going: Head down to Nazca or Arequipa or if you’re going the opposite way Paracas or Lima is your next stop, depending on how much time you have.

Coming: Take a bus down from Lima. Compare companies HERE.  I took Peruhop. It’s a hop-on/hop-off bus that makes your life a heck of a lot easier. You choose your schedule and how long you want to stay in each place, they’ll pick you up and drop you off at your accommodation (assuming it’s in one of the main areas). They offer many different packages so you don’t have to pay if you’re not stopping at every stop, as well some free included tours and discounts at hostels and restaurants.

Sleeping: Kokopelli Hostel is the place to be in Paracas. They’ve got a pool, beach access, bar, restaurant and a great vibe. The beds have curtains which is always appreciated and the facilities are clean. They offer nightly activities and they have a travel agency there if you’re wanting to book things through them. The Wi-Fi is terrible, that would be my only negative about this place.

Overall- 8/10                      Price- S/. 30 PEN ($USD 9.17) for a 14 bed dorm or get a 6 bed dorm with a private bathroom for the same price with Peruhop     Average for Paracas 

Eating: Paracas Restaurant offers typical Peruvian seafood and a view of the port. There are also a lot of places along the beach right outside of Kokopelli. I didn’t try any of them but they were small local places which usually means it’s pretty good, authentic food. Kokopelli also has a restaurant open from 6-10pm that has decently priced and good food.

Doing: Go to the National Reserve and visit the Ballestas Islands

National Reserve- Perhop offers a free tour which is really nice. Otherwise take biks in on your own.  It’s a bit of a long ride but the National Reserve is amazing. You can also take a tour through a company, but I’d take advantage of self guided tours when possible as they are hard to come by in Peru. 

Ballestas Islands- Said to be the “poor man’s Galapagos” you can take a two hour boat tour around the island. I opted out of this because I have been to the actual Galapagos Islands. Everyone who I talked to that went enjoyed it, though! 

Price- S/. 50 PEN ($15 USD) 

Staying: 1-2 nights is plenty. You can do both Balestas Islands and the national reserve in one day, especially with Peruhop they’ll fit it into the bus schedule. I chose to stay an extra day to lounge by the pool.

Going: Get back on Peruhop or whatever bus you’re taking and head south to Huacachina in the desert. If you’re going north then Lima is your next stop!

So you’ve got a date with Peru now what?

My date: Lima > Paracas > Huacachina > Arequipa > Puno > Cusco > Puerto Maldonado (The Amazon) > Machu Picchu > The Sacred Valley > Lima

For how long? 2 months 

First Impressions: If you could only do one thing in Peru…..

Cusco and the surrounding area. There is just so much to do and it’s just insanely beautiful. There are also rumors of Machu Picchu closing soon, so get here!

Will there be a second date? Possibly! I loved Peru and definitely missed some things I’d like to see, but South America has SO much I need to hit the rest of the continent before I go back. 

Budget: Peru isn’t an expensive country in general, however, many of the attractions cannot be done without a tour, which therefore makes it a bit on the pricier side.

Accommodation- S/. 25-40 PEN ($8-12 USD) /night         Restaurant- S/. 15-40 PEN ($ 5-12 USD) without alcohol (S/. 5- 10 PEN for menu del dia)                 Street food- S/. 3-5PEN ($1-2 USD)        Beer- S/. 10 PEN ($3 USD)       Pisco Sour- S/. 15 PEN (usually 2×1) ($5 USD) but more expensive and less deals in Lima and Cusco

What to bring: Layers. The weather changes in an instant.

When to go: Peak travel season is May – October during the dry season. But this means larger crowds, higher prices and the temps are a bit cooler. Rainy season peaks during January and February but honestly, I went during these times and really didn’t experience too much of an inconvenience. Part of Peru is the desert where you’ll have no problems and around Cusco you just have to bring layers and an umbrella with you. The weather is warmer, prices are lower and based on the crowds during low season I don’t even want to imagine what it’s like during peak season.

Visas: Americans do not need a visa when entering Peru, however, you may be asked to show proof of onward travel. Your length of stay is determined when you arrive and can be anywhere from 30-183 days. I am unclear what this is based on. It’s Peru- so I’m guessing it just depends on how good or bad of a mood your customs officer is in. They’ll ask you when you plan on leaving, though, and if you give them a date they’ll generally give you some wiggle room.

Vaccinations: None, unless you’re going to the Amazon where it’s recommended you get Yellow Fever and Typhoid vaccinations. It’s optional but be careful because some countries will not let you enter if you’ve been to the Amazon and have NOT had yellow fever vaccination. 

***Always check beforehand. Information can change so make sure you’re checking yourself for up to date information on Visas, vaccinations, and safety recommendations from your government! US citizens can check HERE***

Language:

Hello- Hola                                          Please- Por favor                             Thank-you- Gracias

Where is: Dónde está…..

Bathroom-el baño                               Hostel- Hostal (os-tal)                                                          

Left- izquierda                                   Right- derecha                                  Straight- derecho

Near- cerca (ser-ka)                          Far – lejos (lay-hos)

What did I miss?  

Máncora- A surf and party town up north. I would’ve hit it if I bussed in, but too far to reach from Lima when I was headed in the opposite direction.  

Huaraz- I did too many mountains and needed a break. But it looks beautiful and I can’t wait to come back to go!

Nazca- I saw a few of the Nazca lines when for free in a short stop along the highway with Peruhop. They were not interesting nor very cool and I am not intrigued by them at all. There are helicopter tours that are expensive and unorganized and it’s just not worth your time or money.

My favorite part: Peru is an amazing country to visit. It has a little bit of EVERYTHING. I had the most fun in Huacachina but spending a lot of time getting to know Cusco was seriously impactful to me.